Just Fiddlin’ Around
Thanks to the Old Time Fiddlers Board for the opportunity to share a few thoughts on the “wood and wire” contraptions that give us so much joy to play and hear.
I'd have to say that, when it comes to my abilities on the fiddle, most people within earshot might rather I have bagpipes nearby... My lack of playing talent doesn't mean I have no experience working with them, as I've actually built one of my own and, had some pass through my repair shop.
There's no exact date of birth for what we call the violin, or fiddle. Ancient instruments involving a “bow” of some kind, drawn across strings appeared in India and the Middle East, while the medieval fiddle emerged in 10th-century Europe, deriving from the Byzantine lira (Greek: λύρα, Latin: lira, English: lyre), a bowed string instrument of the Byzantine Empire and ancestor of most European bowed instruments.
The oldest documented violin to have 4 strings, similar to the modern violin, was constructed by Andrea Amati of Cremona, Italy. Cremona became the undisputed center of violin making in Europe and, resident Antonio Stradivari became history's most famous builder. His are the most sought after, although there have been many modifications made to his original Baroque Era models to update them for today's artists, including adjusted neck angles and lengthened fretboards
Whereas the violin has been recognized for classical and symphonic styles, the “fiddle” (most likely from the Latin, fidula, for violin) has become associated with dancing. It certainly still makes us tap our toes today, played in the droning, double-stopped and syncopated bowing Appalachian style embraced by our Old Time Fiddlers.
Here are a few simple tips on your fiddle setup:
For proper intonation, it's important for the bridge to be centered on the instrument top, between the inward-pointing “notch points”, roughly center cut in the f-holes. Sometimes the scale length (between the nut and the bridge) can have a slight variance and, this position will need to shift but, the centering notches are a good place to start. Once the “sweet spot” is found for the bridge location, it's a good idea to lightly mark both sides of the “feet” (front and back), so it can be re-positioned easily should it be moved. The bridge should be standing up straight, at a right angle to the fiddle top. The tendency is for the bridge to tilt toward the fretboard, due to string tension. If the bridge is leaning slightly, you can make minor adjustments to it yourself. If it is leaning significantly, due to poor contact with the top surface, take it to a violin repair shop or luthier.
A violin is tuned in fifths, G D A E, with the E being the thinnest, highest-voiced string. A fifth being a "perfect" interval, neighboring strings bowed together will make a clean-sounding chord, easy to hear as being in tune. Most times all you need to do is touch up the tuning a bit, using the fine tuning screws on the tailpiece. Check the A with an electronic tuner, check the E with the A, check the D with the A, and check the G with the D. It's pretty easy.
Be careful with the fine tuners as, screwing them down all the way down can ram their levers into the top of the violin, gouging a mark. It's a good idea to back them off occasionally, and bring the strings up to pitch using the pegs. Since the pegs depend on a friction contact with the peg head, do this carefully, so as not to break the string, listening to the string as it slowly comes up to pitch. It's best to first relax the string tension a bit, lowering its pitch, then carefully tighten it up to true pitch. By loosening it first, you get the peg moving, and so get a sense of how tightly it's fitted in the peghole. Because pegs are tapered, to get them to hold without slipping you may need to push in slightly as you turn, especially if they have popped loose.
It only takes a nudge of the peg to make a difference in the pitch of the string. By listening carefully as you twist, you'll get a feel for how much peg movement is needed to do the job. Remember to check the bridge and pull it back straight if it has tilted.
Because wood swells and shrinks with changes in temperature and humidity, pegs can tighten or loosen in the peg holes. For this reason, it's a good idea to work the pegs every so often, even if the violin stays in tune so well that all it usually needs is a tweak of the fine tuners.
When changing strings, only do one at a time, so things stay more or less in place. While you have the opportunity, it doesn't hurt to use a touch of soft pencil lead in the grooves of the nut and the notches of the bridge, as the graphite allows the string to slide easily as you tune, and as you nudge the bridge into place, straight and centered.
Kent Hughes has been a luthier since 2008, having studied with renowned luthier Scott Baxendale. He specializes in re-building vintage Harmony and Kay guitars. He's always happy to discuss musical instruments so feel free to call him at 818-468-6068